Performance Training Program - $150/month

90 min session / Tuesday & Thursday / 5:30 - 9:30pm

Sport climbing performance is dependent on technique, power, strength, power endurance, mobility and mental factors. Practicing and training these aspects of climbing requires time, a scarce resource for busy adults. Utilizing the available time and energy in the most efficient manner is extremely important for the performance oriented sport climber. Austin Rock Gym’s Adult Performance Training Program guides you with expert coaching from credentialed, experienced, and educated climbing professionals.

“The athlete should do the least amount of the most specific training that brings continual improvement”

The training plans and sessions will be devoted to the most important performance factors, tailoring efforts to match individual weaknesses. Each individual session, training week and training block is organized to match tapering energy stores and accumulating fatigue. Special considerations can also be made so that a climber can reach a peak of performance before an important climbing trip.

Dietary guidelines, recovery principles, outdoor climbing strategies, logs/benchmarks and suggested at- home training will also be assigned and reviewed. Consider this Adult Performance Training program an all-inclusive crucible in which to hone your climbing prowess.

You wield the motivation and make the time. Your efforts should be awarded with consistent improvement through the climbing grades. Stack the odds in your favor and direct your energies in the most efficient manner through Austin Rock Gym’s Adult Performance Training Program!

Balancing full-time career and climbing is tricky business. The Adult Performance Training Program at ARG has been the best investment I’ve made to help me maximize my training time and advance towards achieving my goals. I’ve been immediately connected to other climbers looking to get strong, and, together, we’re able to push our limits with access to the unmatched knowledge and expertise of professionals with 20+ years experience coaching professional and elite athletes. I began to see immediate gains after the first two sessions, now red pointing routes almost a full grade harder. Whether you’ve been training, or have never trained before, stop thinking, just do it. 

Tamara S.

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Reserve Your Session

To maximize your training sessions, we have 2 person blocks that begin every 1/2 hour. Please reserve your spot in advance to help us facilitate a smooth and controlled program. If you do not already have an EFT agreement in place, we will take care of you at your first session, so be sure to arrive at least 15 minutes early to get any paperwork out of the way.

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About Coach Seiji

coach-seiji-3-600x400-jpgB.S. in Kinesiology, American College of Sports Medicine Certified Personal Trainer, Wilderness First Responder, American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor and Registered Massage Therapist. 20+ year experience in training and coaching elite amateur and professional athletes. Extensive experience in injury and wellness management. Deep personal background in all forms of climbing and competitive cycling.

Coach Seiji has trained and coached several pro and elite level motocross athletes (culminating in 20+ amateur national championships as well as a professional national championship) as well as part time competitors with real jobs and families trying to achieve their potential. Seiji has also worked with several elite bicycle road racers, mountain bike racers, and triathletes (including several national champions). Comprehensive experience in managing available energy and time with busy athletes in all walks of life, keeping them healthy and performing at their peak when it counts.

Coach Seiji fell in love with climbing while attending the University of Texas at Austin. His single-minded pursuit of climbing led him to teaching and guiding at Austin’s first climbing gym, Pseudo-Rock. He moved on to pursue his training and coaching career, but is now returning to his climbing roots. His goal is to take the evidence-based training philosophies utilized throughout his professional career and employ them to advance climbing ability at Austin Rock Gym. Once again immersing himself in climbing, while maintaining his science backed approach, Coach Seiji wants nothing more than to see you advance through the climbing grades!

Seiji Says

Advice & Tips from Coach Seiji himself

Exploring the Paleo Diet

My Experimentation with the “Alternative” Diet By Seiji Ishii I have been involved in athletics and health promotion my entire adult life. My college education and elite coaching preached that the ultimate diet for athletes was high carbohydrate, moderate protein, and...

Tom Randall and Ollie Torr’s Climbing Research Study Results

By Seiji Ishii Rock climbing has been essentially void of research studies, the lack of commercial gain possible from findings the limiting factor. I recently stumbled across a Training Beta podcast were well known Britsh hardman and crack master Tom Randall and his...

Energy Balance and Rest Weeks

Give back what you take out to reap the rewards of training efforts By Seiji Ishii Athletes often view programming of training through glasses that only see the “what” and “how,” and not the “why,” nor through the bigger picture that includes “when.” In their quest to...

Practice vs. Performance Mindset

If you quietly observe at the climbing gym, most people warm up and try to send boulder problems. The goal is sending - it’s super fun, it boosts the ego, you fist pump your buds, and up it goes on Instagram for public consumption. If your primary goal is to have fun,...

Questioning the RICE Protocol for Sports Injuries

Rest, Ice, Compression, and Elevation (RICE) has been the standard, de facto protocol for traumatic sports injuries and extreme soreness and pain caused by overuse since the late 1970’s. RICE is apparently effective, immediately reducing both pain and soreness and...

Knowledge is Power and Power is Everything

I read a lot. I mean A LOT. Rock climbing training sprouted out in the early 90’s and I was all over it. The only book on the subject was Dale Goddard’s and Udo Neumann’s Performance Rock Climbing and it was gospel as I made my first forays into training climbers at...

Tapering for Climbing Trips

During training fitness is always hiding behind accumulating fatigue. Rarely does the climber get to put the fitness on display; local cragging is just part of a training week, never really attacked fresh. Smart climbers incorporate rest periods, but just as fitness...

Exercise Intensity & Breathing Rates

Monitoring intensity of cardiovascular exercise is all about determining the proportion of fat and carbohydrates being used to power the activity. The gold standard is gas exchange analysis, which involves collecting exhaled air and determining the amount of oxygen...

The lift(s) that aid(s) in EVERYTHING!

Hey gang, OK, so not all these blogs can be vague and esoteric…the public demands practical information, I know! I get asked a lot, “if you could only do one lift that aids in everything, what would it be?” I always say either dead lift or back squat. The kings of...

Cardio for Climbing – Is it worth it?

OK gang, One of the most highly contested arguments in the still young rock climbing training world is whether aerobic training helps or hurts performance. Some pursue aerobic activity for fully separate reasons: health, wellness, mental aspects, community and just...