Energy Balance and Rest Weeks

Give back what you take out to reap the rewards of training efforts By Seiji Ishii Athletes often view programming of training through glasses that only see the “what” and “how,” and not the “why,” nor through the bigger picture that includes “when.” In their quest to...

Practice vs. Performance Mindset

If you quietly observe at the climbing gym, most people warm up and try to send boulder problems. The goal is sending – it’s super fun, it boosts the ego, you fist pump your buds, and up it goes on Instagram for public consumption. If your primary goal is to...

Questioning the RICE Protocol for Sports Injuries

Rest, Ice, Compression, and Elevation (RICE) has been the standard, de facto protocol for traumatic sports injuries and extreme soreness and pain caused by overuse since the late 1970’s. RICE is apparently effective, immediately reducing both pain and soreness and...

Knowledge is Power and Power is Everything

I read a lot. I mean A LOT. Rock climbing training sprouted out in the early 90’s and I was all over it. The only book on the subject was Dale Goddard’s and Udo Neumann’s Performance Rock Climbing and it was gospel as I made my first forays into training climbers at...

Tapering for Climbing Trips

During training fitness is always hiding behind accumulating fatigue. Rarely does the climber get to put the fitness on display; local cragging is just part of a training week, never really attacked fresh. Smart climbers incorporate rest periods, but just as fitness...

Exercise Intensity & Breathing Rates

Monitoring intensity of cardiovascular exercise is all about determining the proportion of fat and carbohydrates being used to power the activity. The gold standard is gas exchange analysis, which involves collecting exhaled air and determining the amount of oxygen...